Paiju Camp to Khubertse Camp – 15KM – 9 Hours
By now, we’d gotten used to the early starts and the rhythm of mountain life: early to bed, early to rise. Breakfast today was a real treat, with the chef whipping up pancakes and Nutella, giving our taste buds a sweet start!
We began the day bundled up, as it was almost chilly—a refreshing change from the relentless heat. We made good progress early on, reaching the edge of the glacier about two hours in. Setting foot on the ice was a special moment; from here on, we’d be walking and camping on this magnificent glacier for much of the journey. The roaring river that flowed from the glacier created a fierce sound and a cool breeze that was invigorating.
Hiking on the glacier was a new challenge. The rugged “path” had us moving up and down, on and off the ice, draining our energy. By lunchtime, we stopped at a small camp where the camp manager—a friend of our guide—welcomed us into his hut for some sweet mountain green tea. Lunch was simple but familiar: half a potato, a boiled egg, half a chapati, and some snacks, all served in colorful Disney lunch boxes. A bit of fun rivalry ensued over who got Lightning McQueen or Elsa!
As with most days, our pace slowed after lunch. The heat hit hard, and we stopped frequently to drink water and cool off. While we hoped for cooler weather, the glacier itself was melting, sending rocks and debris sliding with muddy slush. Although we stayed near the glacier’s edge, safe from the rockslides, the surrounding cliffs posed a greater risk. We saw rocks fall around us a few times, but our guides were vigilant, keeping us moving safely through high-risk zones. We never felt in danger, thanks to their constant care and attention.
Exhausted, we were thrilled to be greeted by our friend Mohamed about a kilometer from the end, with freshly cooked chips and green tea to fuel our final stretch.
As we approached camp, we made a sharp turn up a side valley, crossing a thunderous river. The sight before us was one of the most breathtaking yet—our first real “WOW” moment in the mountains, a view that left us in absolute awe.
We ended the day hot and tired, gathering in the mess tent feeling a bit worn down. But it didn’t take long (especially for the boys) to perk up after a hearty meal of chicken korma and rice. By now, we’d found our rhythm in the mountains: early starts and early bedtimes to beat the sun and heat. It’s challenging, but the beauty of this place makes every step worth it.
Family Russell-Smith Travel 