We left Askoli early for the bumpy, 8-hour drive back to Skardu. The melting snow from the hot days made the rivers tricky to cross, but we managed.

Halfway, we stopped at the same breakfast spot we’d used on the way in, and after weeks in the mountains, we fully enjoyed the fresh paratha, jam, butter, and sweet tea. Once in Skardu, we checked into our hotel and experienced our first shower in 22 days—pure bliss!
We feasted in the hotel restaurant, eating our fill of curry, sandwiches, and chips. Looking in the mirror, we noticed how much weight we’d lost on this journey. That night, adjusting to a bed for the first time felt strange; after 22 days, we’d somehow gotten used to sleeping on rocks and mats.
This has been a journey of a lifetime—challenging, beautiful, and unforgettable.