Day 5 of our Everest Base Camp trek kicked off with an early start. Our bags were packed after a 5:30 AM wake-up call, followed by a hearty breakfast at 6:00 AM. Eating enough is crucial for good days on the trail, and it’s important to consume far more than we would normally. For our family of boys, eating is something we do well (perhaps too well back home!). Travel also offers the perfect excuse to try new things, and this trip was no different. Our only caveat was a strict vegetarian diet. This isn’t our usual approach, but we’d read horror stories of people getting ill from eating meat here, due to concerns about how it’s handled in the mountains. This morning, we enjoyed a mix of choices, including Tibetan bread and eggs, alongside the obligatory pancakes. Once we were full, it was time to hike, and we stepped out to a glorious sight: the sun illuminating clear skies and the magnificent mountains surrounding us.
Today’s hike had a relatively easy morning, but a steep incline after lunch led us directly into Namche Bazaar. It also involved a significant number of steps. These proved quite a challenge for everyone, especially poor William with his shorter legs, but he tackled them like a champ! In many ways, the terrain in Pakistan for K2 felt easier, as he could take smaller steps up hills rather than having to hoist himself up these regulated steps. We also crossed many more suspension bridges, including the famous Hillary Bridge. This iconic crossing was incredibly high, a bit windy, and certainly instilled a healthy dose of fear! We were also greeted by a herd of yaks carrying their packs of luggage at the same time. Our guides, prioritizing safety, wouldn’t let us on the bridges concurrently with the yaks or mules, fearing they might charge, leaving us with nowhere to go but over the side. It was surprising how many other guides didn’t enforce this, or how their clients simply ignored the warnings, as if they were in a rush to reach the top! Despite the immense foot traffic it endures, the path itself was in remarkably good condition and easy to hike on (when there aren’t steps!).
We officially entered Sagarmatha National Park today, marking another significant milestone on our journey. You have to stop at the official checkpoint, which can get quite crowded as permits are checked and luggage is searched. Apparently, they’re looking for drones (which are banned from the National Park), but as before, we breezed through since the trail wasn’t busy.
As we continued along the trail, we encountered more thrilling suspension bridges and paused for a delicious lunch. It was interesting to spot another family with a boy who looked around 12 years old, a reminder that this adventure truly is for all ages. At this point, the trail became quite busy with many trekkers descending, but fortunately, the path for those of us heading up remained uncrowded.
The views throughout the day were simply stunning, especially as we ascended the valley towards the Hillary Bridge, which wasn’t as bad as we’d thought. The vistas from the bridge itself, and from the other side, were equally spectacular, offering panoramic glimpses of the majestic Himalayan landscape.
We arrived in Namche Bazaar just as the rain began to fall – a stroke of pure luck! It was still relatively warm, so it wouldn’t have been a disaster, but the clouds had dropped low, blocking the spectacular views from the trail. This vibrant village is a fascinating hub nestled in the mountains, bustling with numerous tea houses, bars, and cafes. We were fortunate enough to stay at the Khumbu Lodge tea house. It’s believed to be the oldest and first original tea house in Namche (and in the Sagarmatha National Park), a place steeped in history that has hosted notable figures like Al Gore and Jimmy Carter, among others. Our rooms were very comfortable, equipped with heated blankets, which were appreciated with no official heating, despite our rooms being slightly warmer on the top floor.
We ventured out for a little walk to buy some tea, enjoying the lively atmosphere of the village. We managed to get our tea at a reasonable price, which was a bonus, and realized yesterday we had been slightly ripped off with our snack buying, as some prices are cheaper here than lower down. Back at the hotel, we had an unexpected encounter on the stairs, meeting Mitch Hutch (he was attempting his now-record of the ultimate triathlon: swimming, cycling, and then hiking from London to the top of Everest). He seemed like a genuinely nice guy, and it was a shame the boys weren’t with us to say hello, as we had left them in the room to rest up a bit.
Dinner in the Khumbu Lodge was a lovely affair, featuring a delicious meal of pizza, momos, and fried rice. We’ve also all discovered a new tea (for us) in the form of Masala tea, which has quickly become our go-to order.
Tomorrow, we’re taking a path less traveled. Instead of spending a second night in Namche Bazaar, as most trekkers do after an acclimatisation hike to the Everest View Hotel, we’re making our ascent to Khumjung Village. This decision is strategic for several reasons: it avoids an overly long hiking day tomorrow, ensuring better rest; it prevents us from having to retrace our steps the following day, which would extend our trek; and crucially, we’ve arranged to visit a local school. This visit will allow us to learn firsthand about the challenges of education in Nepal as part of our quest to aid the Nimsdai Foundation with scholarships. This hike to Khumjung will also serve as our essential acclimatisation for the increasing altitude as we continue our journey upwards.
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Family Russell-Smith Travel 