Today we woke up aching, cold, and utterly weary. The long, intense day of reaching EBC had taken its toll. The feeling of accomplishment was momentarily replaced by deep fatigue and a little concern. The great news was that Martina was a hundred percent on the mend, which was a huge relief! However, William, who had been off his food for a while, refused to eat and was definitely on a downward spiral of fatigue and hunger.
The best thing we could do was get moving and hope that a change in altitude was the answer. Our expert guides checked our vitals again, and our O2 levels were not just good, they were excellent for the altitude, a testament to how well we had acclimatised. Our goal for the day was a significant one: a long, downhill journey from Gorak Shep to Pangboche.
Sunshine and Skipping
We woke once more to −22∘C, but thankfully, the sun was out! This gave us a breathtaking sight of the glorious, snow-covered mountains around us—a truly amazing view that provided a real boost for our energy and our souls.
Leaving the windswept outpost of Gorak Shep, we retraced our steps along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. While this was technically a downhill journey, the path is still incredibly rocky and uneven, demanding careful footing and sure steps. The air remained thin, but the pressure of gaining altitude was gone, making each step feel significantly easier. What a relief it was to see William quickly perk up within the first hour as the altitude dropped! He was instantly famished and was swiftly fed chocolate bars and snacks by our guides. It was amazing to watch him literally start to skip down the mountain!
On our descent, we passed familiar landmarks, including the Everest Memorials, and continued down the steep path back toward Lobuche. The downhill path is challenging in a different way, as the continuous steps down jarred our old knees. But with the sun on our backs and the increase in oxygen in the air, the hike became genuinely enjoyable. The downhill trek from Gorak Shep to Lobuche is a welcome relief, but we knew it was important not to rush; the rocky terrain can be tough on the joints, and dehydration is still a real risk.
Returning to Life
One part that felt particularly brutal was the steep set of steps from the memorial down to Dughla, where we stopped for a delicious lunch. Those steps are steep and hard on the knees and the soles of your feet! We continued down past Dughla and on toward the normal stopping point of Pheriche, finally leaving the high-altitude desert behind.
The trail gradually became less rocky and more defined as we followed the valley floor. As we lost elevation, the landscape began its incredible transformation. The bare, windswept moraine gave way to sparse grasses and patches of low-lying vegetation. The air here was noticeably thicker and warmer, and you could feel your body recovering with every single step. The views of Ama Dablam, which had once been a distant companion, now became more prominent and closer.
Unfortunately, the sun soon disappeared behind the clouds. An ominous rumble of thunder filled the air, and random flurries of snow made us worry that perhaps we’d bitten off too much of a hike for the day. The wind picked up again, biting cold, and our leg fatigue really started to kick in.
The final leg of the trek took us from Pheriche to Pangboche. As we left Pheriche, the trail followed the Imja Khola river and began to re-enter a landscape with actual trees and shrubs! The stark beauty of the higher altitudes was replaced by lush greenery. Along the way, we started to cross the familiar suspension bridges across spectacular gorges and pass through charming hamlets. The sound of the river and the rustling of leaves replaced the wind and silence of the moraine—it felt like returning to life.
We arrived at the teahouse utterly exhausted, cold, and immensely relieved to be there. There was a promise of a shower… which turned out to be a basic setup best described as a warm water trickle in a freezer! Dad (John) was the only one who bravely endured it, reporting that it was “refreshing.” The food, thankfully, was delicious, and we all headed to bed exhausted, sleeping incredibly well for the first time in days. What a difference that drop in altitude made!
Family Russell-Smith Travel 