Askole to Jula Camp (Approx. 21 km, 6.5 hrs)
Today was the big day—time for boots on and off to start this adventure! It was an early start, knowing that the heat would be intense later. We agreed with our guide on a 5 am breakfast, hoping to avoid the midday sun as much as possible. This early routine would become our daily pattern as we adjusted to mountain life, going to bed early and rising early.
Leaving the village of Askole, the streets were already bustling, even at this hour. Porters were weighing their loads carefully, as each could carry no more than 25 kg. The lead porter was in charge, organizing the team, ensuring everyone had what they needed, and checking the loads weren’t too heavy. He also kept a little notebook to track who was carrying what.
Each morning, part of our routine was packing up our tents and organizing our gear. We had two duffle bags and two large hiking bags. Looking back, we’d definitely recommend going with duffle bags—they’re easier for the porters to handle and, if they’re high quality, they’re more waterproof, a big advantage when the rain and snow come.
We set out with locals smiling, some clapping, and cheering as we passed by, like celebrities in the village! The boys were the main attraction, and our guide later mentioned that the local talk was that we’d likely be back soon, as some doubted the boys could handle the hike. Were they right? Well, dear reader, you’ll have to keep reading to find out… 😉
After an hour on a rugged dirt road past houses and fields, we reached the Karakoram National Park entrance. Here, we registered with park authorities. Our assistant guide Shamu had gone ahead to handle the paperwork, so all we had to do was sign a few forms. The park officials, two men in track suits and aviators, were thrilled to meet us, especially the boys, who they believed to be the youngest hikers entering the park!
Once inside, the trail continued along a dirt road, though rough enough that we wished we’d worn our boots instead of trainers to avoid twisted ankles. By 9 am, the heat was intense. The sun was scorching, so we stayed hydrated, drenched our hats and cooling towels (best invention!), and sipped water constantly. But streams were rare here; the area is actually quite dry. While we followed a glacial river, the water was silty and rushing fast—best avoided. By the time we reached Jula Camp, we’d each drunk over three liters but still craved more.
Being slower than other teams, we watched groups pass us, often with friendly encouragement, though some gave us looks of surprise, maybe even disapproval about the boys’ presence.
For lunch, we stopped at an old, partially flooded camp and had a simple meal of a boiled egg, potato, dried fruit and nuts, a small cake, a chocolate bar, and hard candies. With the heat, we didn’t want much more.
The afternoon pace was slower under the sun’s relentless intensity, but we stayed in good spirits. Pro tip: bring long sleeves, caps, and even an umbrella, especially for the kids!
After 6.5 hours of hiking and 21 km, we reached camp. Our guide chose a “new” camp, separate from the main one, saving us two hours of hiking. It was peaceful and a welcome change from the noise of Askole. Dinner of sweet and sour chicken with mango for dessert went down well, replenishing us after the long day.
After rehydrating and refueling, it was time for bed. With another early start planned, we were all tucked in by 8 pm, ready for the next day.
Family Russell-Smith Travel 