Khoburtse Camp to Urdukas Camp – 7km, 4.5 hours
Today was a shorter hike—just 7 km—but still a challenge, as we were feeling the effects of yesterday’s long trek in the heat. Although it was a “short” distance, the trail was slow-going, and our goal of finishing in under three hours quickly became unrealistic due to the sheer volume of traffic.
Almost immediately, we found ourselves in long trains of army mules carrying supplies to remote camps higher up the mountain near the Chinese border. The loads seemed to be mostly fuel and rice, and the poor mules were heavily burdened, many with sores on their backs and legs. It was striking to see the contrast between these mules and the ones used by hikers and expeditions—those were in good shape, not overloaded, and looked well-cared for.
The further we hiked into the Karakoram, the bigger and more breathtaking the mountains became. After days of traversing a hot, barren, almost desert-like landscape, arriving at the Urdukas Camp was like stepping into an oasis of green. The small trees and plants, fed by glacial runoff, gave the camp a refreshing, relaxed atmosphere. It’s a stunning spot with absolutely spectacular views.
Despite the slower pace, our early start meant we reached camp early, giving us the rest of the day to unwind. We enjoyed good food, sipped on tea, and played endless rounds of UNO and cards, turning this afternoon into a sort of bonus rest day.
One of the highlights of Urdukas is a spectacular rock overlooking the valley and the glacier below. We sat there for hours, watching the world go by, snapping countless photos, and marveling at the sunset, wondering how each day seems to get more beautiful. We were even treated to the dramatic sight of a massive rockfall across the valley, the rumble sounding like a jet engine and lasting nearly five minutes. It reminded us of the raw power of nature and how remote and vulnerable we truly are in these mountains. Though we didn’t feel in danger, there was definitely a sense of awe and respect.
After another delicious dinner, we decided on an early night, knowing that tomorrow was a rest day. We’re in sync with the mountain’s rhythm now, prioritizing rest as the challenges ahead grow tougher.
Family Russell-Smith Travel 