Jula Camp to Paiju Camp – 23 km, 300 m Ascent
BEEP BEEP! The alarm at 4:30 am came early despite our early bedtime. Everyone slept well, knowing there were more long days ahead.
We’ve found that things take us a bit longer than most groups and our guide’s expectations, especially with the boys. The guides typically allow groups 30 minutes to wake, pack up, and eat, but we take at least double. Note to self: allow an hour before departure!
The morning was cool, ideal for hiking, and we made great progress before lunch, moving faster than expected. Shadows from towering peaks protected us from the sun, and the boys asked how high they were. “5,000 meters,” our guide said. Hard to believe we’d soon be that high ourselves, surrounded by snow!
By lunchtime, temperatures soared. Our stop was at a humble settlement with a basic mud hut selling Coca-Cola. The rest of the area was exposed, but our guides arranged for us to sit in a shaded area for animals, where we used waterproofs and hiking poles to build a shelter. Jealous glances from other groups confirmed this was a great setup.
The afternoon brought even more heat, and the dry, sandy terrain felt like a desert. Despite the nearby glacial river, its sediment-laden waters were undrinkable, so we relied on the water we’d packed at lunch. We saw other hikers struggling, too, including seasoned climbers wilting under the sun’s intensity.
Crossing several streams and shaky bridges added excitement, especially for the boys. As we neared camp, Muhammad, our assistant cook, met us with biscuits and sweet tea—a welcome boost!
Even with our early start and shortcut, we were the last to arrive, making it a long, hot day. John felt overheated initially and spent some time re-hydrating and cooling down. After some rest and delicious onion and chip bhajis cooked by Akbax, our head cook, everyone felt revived. The boys, resilient as ever, were full of energy again within half an hour of reaching camp!
We spent the evening playing UNO and enjoyed a feast of curried vegetables, macaroni cheese, chapatis, and endless tea. Tomorrow was planned as a rest day, perfect for acclimatization and a break from the heat.
As we drifted off to sleep, we listened to the porters singing and dancing in the camp below—a joyful end to another memorable day on the trail.
Family Russell-Smith Travel 