Urdukas Camp to Goro 2 Camp – 12 km, 7 hours
Today started with a dramatic shift in weather. We woke to rain and a night filled with thunder and lightning, with low clouds obscuring our views. It was disappointing but not unexpected for the mountains. After an early wake-up, we decided to wait a bit, hoping the rain would ease. Unfortunately, after a slow breakfast and an hour’s delay, it only seemed to worsen.
As they say, “There’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing,” so we swapped our shorts and T-shirts for waterproofs and packed thermals and woolly hats. Within the first hour, the temperature dropped drastically. Yesterday’s heat felt like a distant memory as we faced near-freezing conditions. At this point, we would have preferred it to be below zero, as snow would have been easier to deal with than rain, which seeps into everything despite the best gear.
The trail led us through incredible ice formations, jutting up from the glacier. It was a shame the low clouds obscured the mountain backdrop, but even in the mist, the formations were surreal. We stopped for lunch at Goro 1 Camp, a very basic spot with only a signpost and rock walls built by porters. There was no shelter from the biting wind, and though the rain stopped, everyone was still shivering, including our guides.
Despite feeling cold and wet, our thoughts went to the porters, many without waterproofs, wearing only traditional cotton clothes, soaked and cold, some in just sandals. We were struck by the unfairness, but this is something Chris at Epic Expeditions is trying to address by offering better pay and supplying essential gear. It’s a huge need out here.
As the hike continued, the rain turned to sleet and then to wet snow. It was cold, but we stayed warm as long as we kept moving. The boys were amazing, showing resilience and positivity, laughing and chatting despite the bleak surroundings. We pressed on, and as we reached Goro 2 Camp, the snow stopped, and the clouds parted just enough to let slivers of sunshine through, giving us a chance to dry off.
That’s when we realized one of our packing errors. Our large backpacks, rather than duffel bags, had been with the porters and got wet. Thankfully, we had been advised to line them with large plastic bags, so our belongings stayed dry, even though the bags themselves were soaked. With the sun out, we managed to dry our sleeping mats just in time for the night.
In the evening, we enjoyed a special dinner—the chef had cooked a Pakistani goat curry. Stu, the goat who had been traveling with us, was no longer in our group, but his presence was warmly felt in the delicious meal! This hearty dinner gave us the energy we’d need for tomorrow’s hike, and we’re all becoming big fans of Pakistani curries.
Family Russell-Smith Travel 